In recent years, interest in natural
dyes, its production and usage, has surged among environmentalists,
traditional artists, and cultural activists alike. Unlike synthetic dyes that
have dominated the market since their invention in 1856, natural dyes are
renewable and environmentally-friendly. They can also be employed by
researchers and archeologists for the conversion and restoration of old
textiles. In an effort to better understand the historic development and
modern applications of natural dyes, the United Nations Educational,
Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) joined with the Craft Council of
India to host the first International Symposium/Workshop on Natural Dyes which
was held in Hyderabad, India from the 5th to the 12th of November.
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Sarvenaz Ghanean, in charge of Natural Dyeing
Laboratory of Traditional Arts Research Center |
The Symposium brought together master
craftspeople, specialists in natural dyes and crafts, and academics from
nearly fifty-seven countries. During the Symposiums eight sessions,
participants were provided the opportunity to learn more about the decline and
revival of natural dyes, their social impact, their role in economic
development and sustainable growth, and the role of governments and
non-governmental organizations in developing and promoting the use of natural
dyes.
Leading specialists in the field also
put forth more than fifty presentations on numerous subjects related to
natural dyes. Moreover, more than thirty interactive workshops were held on
new printing and dyeing methods which were greatly welcomed by the
participants at the Symposium and many had to be re-scheduled by the
organizers to meet the public demand.
Representatives from the different
participating countries also put forth workshops on techniques and crafts
specific to their country. The Symposium also included two art exhibition
showcasing dyed textiles from across the world along with "Naturally... the
bazaar", a week-long trade fair by weavers, craftsmen, and commercial
enterprises. Participants were also provided with the opportunity to learn
about natural dyes first-hand on day trips to local dyeing vats and weaving
factories.
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"Color Gamut of Natural dyes Used for Persian Woolen
Carpet"
in the fifth session of the Symposium |
The Symposium aimed to establish a
database on existing natural plant dyes and traditional production processes;
to stimulate research in new biological sources and technical possibilities in
contemporary textile production, and to discuss the efforts underway to revive
the use of natural dyes and improve the present process of dyeing. It also
focused on the various procedures being employed by different countries in the
natural dyeing process and set out to share experiences and ideas on the key
problems and major prospects facing natural-dyed products in the international
market along with promoting joint efforts and technical cooperation programs.
Participants also emphasized the need for establishing such links and took
advantage of the time provided to learn more about activities in other parts
of the world.
Ms. Sarvenaz Ghanean, a graduate from
Amirkabir University of Technology and instructor and in charge of Natural
Dyeing Laboratory of Traditional Arts Research Center, represented the Islamic
Republic of Iran and provided a presentation on "Color Gamut of Natural dyes
Used for Persian Woolen Carpet" in the fifth session of the Symposium. In her
presentation she discussed her recent research on how to use the Principal
Component Analysis method to obtain the basis functions and color gamut of
natural dyes used for Persian carpet, as well as the comparison between
natural dyes with synthetic ones and Munsell color chips. The presentation was
well-received by the audience who were very interested to learn more about
Persian carpets and techniques used in their production.
As one of the youngest participants and
presenters, Ms. Ghanean succeeded in impressing the audience with her
well-rounded grasp on the issue and managed to interest many in the techniques
employed in the country. Iran is rich in varieties of traditional arts and
handicrafts and has a long history of using natural dyes in arts such as
carpet weaving, Zari as well as printing and painting on fabrics. Hopefully,
Iran will have a greater presence in future similar international settings
which would enable it to play a greater role in the international market of
naturally dyed products.